Contents
List of illustrations in Part I, 000
List of color plates, 000
Preface, 000
PART I: ABOUT THE COLLECTION
CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION, 2
About the Koelz Collection, 2
The Organization of this Work, 4
CHAPTER 2. WALTER N. KOELZ AND HIS COLLECTIONS, 6
A Biographical Sketch, 6
The UMMA Koelz Collection, 8
CHAPTER 3. "TURBANS," (PATKAS), 15 
CHAPTER 4. KASHMIR AND PERSIAN SHAWLS IN THEIR HISTORICAL CONTEXT, 20
The Historical Background of the Kashmir Shawl, 21
Early Development: Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, 21
Nineteenth-Century Production, 23
The Koelz Collection in Its Broader Contexts, 24
The Shawls, 25
Parts of a Shawl, 25
Size and Shape, 25
Weight, 29
Shawl Materials, 30
Understanding Weave, 35
Producers and Consumers, 40
The Production Process, 40
The Loom, 40
The Talim, 42
Working Conditions, 45
Expanding Demand and Its Impact on Production, 47
CHAPTER 5. DISSECTING THE KASHMIR SHAWL, PART 1: PIECEWORK AND STRUCTURAL PROPORTIONS, 50
Piecework As a Time-Saving Device, 50
The Needlework of Piecing, 51
Piecework Structures, 52
Rectilinear Piecing in Long Shawls, 53
Piecing in Square Shawls: Moon to Quatrefoil Format, 53
A Multi-Moon Design Layout, 55
A Quatrefoil Square Shawl, 61
Other Variants on the Moon Shawl, 64
The Elaboration of Fringe Gates, 66
Changing Structures: Increased Figure Area, 71
The Influence of the Jacquard Loom on Shawl Design, 72
CHAPTER 6. DISSECTING THE KASHMIR SHAWL, PART 2: DECORATIVE MOTIFS, 76
The Boteh Motif, 76
Symbolism of the Boteh: A Ubiquitous Natural Shape, 83
Radial Flower Motif, 84
Shared Motifs, 84
Beading, 88
Red-Flower-Green-Leaf Bel, 95
Wishbone-Rose Border, 95
Four-Fragrant-Flower Repeat, 96
References Cited, 97
Glossary, 100
PART II: CATALOGUE 
TURBANS/PATKAS, 104
UMMA 17387, 104
UMMA 17313, 106
LONG SHAWLS, 107
Long Shawls Woven Whole, 107
UMMA 17312, 108
Yardage Long Shawls, 110
UMMA 17314, 110
UMMA 17337, 112
UMMA 17339, 114
UMMA 17348, 116
Field Gallery Long Shawls, 119
UMMA 17328, 120
UMMA 17327, 122
UMMA 17333, 124
Block Pieced Long Shawls, 126
UMMA 17320, 126
Reworked Long Shawls, 128
UMMA 17310, 128
UMMA 17305, 130
UMMA 17334, 132
Strata-Field Long Shawls, 135
UMMA 17321, 136
UMMA 17309, 138
UMMA 17307, 140
UMMA 17335, 142
SQUARE SHAWLS, 144
Moon Shawls Woven Whole, 144
UMMA 17317, 146
UMMA 17323, 148
UMMA 17308, 150
Moon Shawls Woven Whole except for Attached Hashias, 152
UMMA 17330, 152
UMMA 17342, 154
UMMA 17344, 156
UMMA 17304, 158
UMMA 17316, 160
UMMA 17324, 164
UMMA 17311, 166
UMMA 17332, 168
Moon Shawls Pieced across the Middle, 170
UMMA 17306, 172
UMMA 17326, 174
UMMA 17319, 176
Square Shawls with Broad Field Gallery, 179
UMMA 17325, 180
UMMA 17340, 182
UMMA 17343, 184
Piecework Square Shawls, 186
UMMA 17369, 187
UMMA 17318, 190
UMMA 17345, 192
Strata-Field Square Shawls, 195
UMMA 17329, 196
UMMA 17315, 198
UMMA 17341, 200
Pieced Conglomerate Square Shawls, 202
UMMA 17322, 202
UMMA 17331, 204
UMMA 17336, 206
UMMA 17338, 208
Square Machine-Woven False Kashmir Shawl, 210
UMMA 47325, 210
PART III: COLOR PLATES
LIST OF COLOR PLATES BY SHAWL TYPE, 212
COLOR PLATES, 000
UMMA 17387. Silk-embroidered cotton turban, 000	
UMMA 17313. Fine creamy white wool turban or patka, 000
Detail of palla (UMMA 17313), 000
Detail of boteh motif (UMMA 17313), 000
UMMA 17312. Woven wool shawl, 000 
UMMA 17314. Yellow wool shawl, 000 
UMMA 17337. Striped pashmina shawl, 000 
UMMA 17339. Red and white striped wool shawl, 000 
UMMA 17348. Medallioned ivory-white shawl, 000 
UMMA 17328. Parchment-white wool shawl, style of 1820s, 000
UMMA 17327. Striped wool shawl, style of ca. 1825, 000
UMMA 17333. Floral striped long shawl, style of ca. 1825, 000 
Detail of palla and color tab fringe gate (UMMA 17333), 000
UMMA 17320. Red wool shawl, 000
Detail of mihrab fringe gate (UMMA 17320), 000
UMMA 17310. Black wool shawl, 1820-1830, 000 
UMMA 17305. Blue wool shawl, second quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 
UMMA 17334. Striped wool shawl, possibly mid-nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17321. Red wool shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 
UMMA 17309. Wool shawl-coverlet lined in cotton sateen, 1820-1830, 000 
UMMA 17307. Red wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000
Fringe gate of pieced color blocks (UMMA 17307), 000
UMMA 17335. Red wool long shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000 
Detail of UMMA 17335, 000
Detail of UMMA 17335, 000
UMMA 17317. Floral-striped moon shawl, perhaps 1800, 000
Detail of corner quarter-moon, end border, and fringe (UMMA 17317), 000
UMMA 17323. White wool moon shawl, style of ca. 1815, 000 
UMMA 17308. Blue and white wool moon shawl, late eighteenth or early nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17330. White moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 
UMMA 17342. Ivory wool moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 
Detail of end border and field of shawl, UMMA 17342, 000
UMMA 17344. White wool moon shawl, around 1825, 000
UMMA 17344. Wishbone-rose motif and knotting of fringes, 000
UMMA 17304. White wool moon shawl, possibly 1825, 000
UMMA 17316. Brick-red moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17324. Red moon shawl, ca. 1815, 000
UMMA 17311. Red wool, multi-moon shawl, early nineteenth century, 000 
UMMA 17332. Ikat medallion, wool shawl, ca. 1830s, 000 
UMMA 17306. Red wool moon shawl, ca. 1825, 000 
UMMA 17326. Red wool moon shawl, style of ca. 1830, 000
UMMA 17319. Striped wool moon shawl, style of 1825-1830, 000
UMMA 17325. Amber yellow and black wool shawl, style of second quarter of the nineteenth century, 000 
UMMA 17340. Crimson and white wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17343. Embroidered wool shawl, ca. 1830, 000
UMMA 17369. Crimson wool shawl, ca. 1870, 000
UMMA 17318. Piecework shawl, third quarter of the nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17345. Red wool shawl, third quarter of the nineteenth century, 000
Detail of mihrab fringe gate (UMMA 17345), 000
UMMA 17329. Red strata-field shawl, after 1820s, 000
UMMA 17315. Red strata-field shawl, post-1830, 000
UMMA 17341. Red strata-field shawl, post-1830, 000 
UMMA 17322. White wool square shawl, mid-nineteenth century, 000
UMMA 17331. Yellow wool shawl, field motifs of early nineteenth century style, 000
UMMA 17336. Red wool shawl, post-1825, 000
UMMA 17338. Wine red wool shawl, mid-nineteenth century or later, 000
UMMA 47325. Brocade, floral striped, black wool, square shawl, 000
TABLES AND ILLUSTRATIONS IN PART I
TABLES
2.1.	Koelz and Beardsley shawl classifications, 12
4.1.	Cashmere goat hair compared with other animal textile fibers, 32
4.2.	Quantities of shawls shipped from Indian cities in nineteenth century, 48
FIGURES
3.1.	Soumak technique as used in weaving, 17
3.2.	Radial flower, late-eighteenth-century motif, 19
4.1.	Parts of a shawl, 26
4.2.	Shawl sizes in the Koelz collection, 28
4.3.	Range of Koelz shawl weights, 30
4.4.	Incidence of woven colors in principal areas, 35
4.5.	Representative thread counts of Koelz shawls, 37
4.6.	Two/two twill double interlocked tapestry weave, 39
4.7.	Analysis of a turquoise floret with yellow center and black outline, 43
4.8.	Part of a Kashmiri talim, 44
5.1.	Partial field portion of Persian rectilinear block pieced long shawl, 54
5.2.	Multi-moon layout of square Kashmir shawl, 56
5.3.	Piecing diagram of a Kashmir multi-moon shawl, 57
5.4.	Design piecing system for one corner of a piecework shawl, 58
5.5.	Layer weaving of shawl borders, 60
5.6.	Piecing plan of a Persian multi-moon derivative shawl, 60
5.7.	Piecing of different corners of a single shawl, 61
5.8.	Proposed weaving plan for piecing parts of Persian shawl, 62
5.9.	Partial piecing detail of a quatrefoil shawl's field corner, 63
5.10.	Small, irregular pieces to be cut out and incorporated into piecework shawls, 65
5.11.	Design development in nineteenth-century Kashmir square shawls, 67
5.12.	Knotting of fringe gates, Balti long shawl, northern Kashmir, 68
5.13.	Mihrab fringe gates, 69
5.14.	Diagram of a single repeat in the fringe gate of a Persian shawl, 70
5.15.	Scheme of fringe gate on a Persian shawl of the late nineteenth century, 70	
5.16.	Micro-threading draft illustrating point repeat, 73
5.17.	Jacquard motif, 74
6.1.	Celery botehs of the 1860s-1870s, 78
6.2.	Mughal and Persian plant forms on seventeenth-century textiles, 79
6.3.	Conventionalized seventeenth-century plant forms, 80
6.4.	Transitional versions of the boteh composition, 81
6.5.	Development of the boteh: designs evolving toward vase and dish, 82
6.6.	Essentials of yun-tsai-t'ou design from carpet and shawl borders, 84
6.7.	Variations of the hooked vine motif, 85
6.8.	Burgeoning hooked vine runners, 86
6.9.	Some variants of bugle beading found in guards of palla tanjirs, 87
6.10.	Thickened bugle beads in a rhomboid shape, 88
6.11.	Some hexagonal beading forms, 89
6.12.	Beading on early-seventeenth-century hashia guard, 90
6.13.	Yellow "birds" of tanjir guard flying with outstretched necks, 91
6.14.	Residual beading of the later nineteenth century, 91
6.15.	Wishbone-rose motif, 92	
PLATES
2.1.	Walter N. Koelz, 8
4.1.	Himalayan goat, 31
4.2.	Mr. John Mohammed Sheikh demonstrating shawl weaving, 41