Alone in Mexico: The Astonishing Travels of Karl Heller, 1845–1848
edited by Terry Rugeley
translated by Terry Rugeley
by Karl Bartolomeus Heller
translated by Terry Rugeley
by Karl Bartolomeus Heller
University of Alabama Press, 2007
Paper: 978-0-8173-5456-5 | eISBN: 978-0-8173-8033-5 | Cloth: 978-0-8173-1588-7
Library of Congress Classification F1213.H4813 2007
Dewey Decimal Classification 917.2045
Paper: 978-0-8173-5456-5 | eISBN: 978-0-8173-8033-5 | Cloth: 978-0-8173-1588-7
Library of Congress Classification F1213.H4813 2007
Dewey Decimal Classification 917.2045
ABOUT THIS BOOK | AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY | REVIEWS | TOC
ABOUT THIS BOOK
The first-ever English translation of the memoirs of botanist and naturalist Karl Heller
This volume is the first-ever English translation of the memoirs of Karl Heller, a twenty-year-old aspiring Austrian botanist who traveled to Mexico in 1845 to collect specimens. He passed through the Caribbean, lived for a time in the mountains of Veracruz, and journeyed to Mexico City through the cities of Puebla and Cholula. After a brief residence in the capital, Heller moved westward to examine the volcanoes and silver mines near Toluca. When the United States invaded Mexico in 1846–47 conditions became chaotic, and the enterprising botanist was forced to flee to Yucatán. Heller lived in the port city of Campeche, but visited Mèrida, the ruins of Uxmal, and the remote southern area of the Champotòn River. From there Heller, traveling by canoe, journeyed through southern Tabasco and northern Chiapas and finally returned to Vienna through Cuba and the United States bringing back thousands of samples of Mexican plants and animals.
Heller's account is one of the few documents we have from travelers who visited Mexico in this period, and it is particularly useful in describing conditions outside the capital of Mexico City. In 1853 Heller published his German-language account as Reisen in Mexiko, but the work has remained virtually unknown to English or Spanish readers. This edition now provides a complete, annotated, and highly readable translation.
This volume is the first-ever English translation of the memoirs of Karl Heller, a twenty-year-old aspiring Austrian botanist who traveled to Mexico in 1845 to collect specimens. He passed through the Caribbean, lived for a time in the mountains of Veracruz, and journeyed to Mexico City through the cities of Puebla and Cholula. After a brief residence in the capital, Heller moved westward to examine the volcanoes and silver mines near Toluca. When the United States invaded Mexico in 1846–47 conditions became chaotic, and the enterprising botanist was forced to flee to Yucatán. Heller lived in the port city of Campeche, but visited Mèrida, the ruins of Uxmal, and the remote southern area of the Champotòn River. From there Heller, traveling by canoe, journeyed through southern Tabasco and northern Chiapas and finally returned to Vienna through Cuba and the United States bringing back thousands of samples of Mexican plants and animals.
Heller's account is one of the few documents we have from travelers who visited Mexico in this period, and it is particularly useful in describing conditions outside the capital of Mexico City. In 1853 Heller published his German-language account as Reisen in Mexiko, but the work has remained virtually unknown to English or Spanish readers. This edition now provides a complete, annotated, and highly readable translation.
AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY
Karl Bartholomaeus Heller (1824–1880) was an Austrian botanist and naturalist who explored Mexico in 1845–48 and published this memoir. Born in Moravia, Heller was a professor at the Theresianum in Vienna. Among Heller's later works is his defense of Darwinism, Darwin und der Darwinismus, 1869.
Terry Rugeley is professor of History at the University of Oklahoma and author of Yucatán’s Maya Peasantry of the Caste War, Of Wonders and Wise Men: Religion and Popular Cultures in Southwest Mexico, 1800–1876, and Maya Wars: Ethnographic Accounts from 19th Century Yucatán.
Terry Rugeley is professor of History at the University of Oklahoma and author of Yucatán’s Maya Peasantry of the Caste War, Of Wonders and Wise Men: Religion and Popular Cultures in Southwest Mexico, 1800–1876, and Maya Wars: Ethnographic Accounts from 19th Century Yucatán.
REVIEWS
“Heller does not only focus on the Maya ruins but also provides unique observations about indigenous society. The editor has done a commendable job translating this book and providing an introduction and annotations that help the reader place the work in its context.”
—Jürgen Buchenau is the author of In the Shadow of the Giant: The Making of Mexico’s Central American Policy, 1876–1930.
— -“A fine and useful book. The narrative offers numerous insights—both implicit and explicit—about the difficulties facing a recently independent Mexico, from its infrastructure to its politics. What is most interesting, however, is the narrator himself.”
—Richard Warren, Director of the Latin American Studies Program at St. Joseph’s University— -
—Richard Warren, Director of the Latin American Studies Program at St. Joseph’s University— -
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents List of Illustrations 000 Acknowledgments 000 Chronology 000 Introduction 000 First Part: Travels in Veracruz, Puebla, and Mexico Chapter 1 000 Departure from Vienna--First Glimpse of the Sea--We Embark--The Steamship Tay- -An Account Thereof--Departure from Europe--The Ocean--The Storm--Porto Santo- -Madeira--Funchal--Tropical Vegetation--A Nunnery--The Fish and Fruit Market-- A Promenade--Travels in the West Indies--A Thunderstorm--Ocean Services Chapter 2 000 Barbados--Location--Surface Area--Population--Bridgetown--A House--Population- -Fruit Market--The Grenadines--Grenada--Location--Surface Area--Georgetown-- Swimming Ability of the Negro--Products--Vegetation--A Change of Steamships-- The Tweed--Jacmel--Haiti--Location and Extension--Culture--Population-- Government--Tremendous Heat--Rats--Sleepless Nights--Port Royal--Jamaica--The Blue Mountains--Divisions--Kingston--Mosquitoes--Vultures--The Southern Cross- -Cape San Antonio--Havana--Its Luxury--The Island of Cuba--Location--Surface Area--Population--Plaza de Armas--House of Refreshment--Paseo Tacon--El Cerro- -Buildings and Factories--Culture of the Land Chapter 3 000 North Winds--The Campeche Coast--Sea Breezes--The Mainland Coast--Veracruz-- The Harbor--The Fortress--Location, Climate, and Population of the State--The Hotel--An Evening Therein--Sand Dunes--Santa Fe--Tepache--The First Day's Journey--Paso de Ovejas--Barrancas--Midway Point--Oak Forest--Arrival in Mirador Chapter 4 000 Mirador--Its Inhabitants--Other German Properties--View of Orizaba--The Cordillera--Hut Frames--Soil and Climate--Winter Rain--Savannah--Vegetation of the Barrancas--Tiger Grotto--Orange Groves--Zacuapan--Esperanza--Customs of the People--Fandango--San Bartolo--Feast Day--Reflections over the Indian Viewpoint--Their Physique Chapter 5 000 Christmas Eve--Excursion to Huatusco--Market in Mirador--Items That Are Brought There--Lassos--Tiger Hunting--An Indian--His Woman--The Governor-- Condition of Mexico in the Year 1845--Revolution--Hazards--The Evening of a Party--Theft--Cebo--Cockfighting--The Fort--Ancient Indian Ruin--Great Thirst- -Description of the Barranca--Garrapatas--Hieroglyphics--Life in the Wilderness--Return and Departure from Mirador Chapter 6 000 My House in Huatusco--Journey to Orizaba--Barranca de San Juan--San Juan Coscomatepec--Earthquake--Santa Maria Alpatlahua--Journey in the Mountains-- Devastation of the Forests--Jacale--The Peak of Orizaba--A Dangerous Glimpse-- La Cuchilla--The West Side of the Cordillera--The High Plains--Tlachichuca-- Maguey and Pulque--Los Derrumbados--Tepetitlan--La Capilla--Canoitas--A Mexican Hut--La Cumbre--Achilchotla--Barranca de Chichiquila--Huatusco Chapter 7 000 My Life in Huatusco--A Small Adventure--A Phenomenon--My Economy--Hills-- Journey through Puerto Viejo--Waterfall--The Xamapa Barranca--Sinkholes of Rio Xamapa--Concerning the Shape of the Mountain--Pueblo Viejo--Bite of a Poisonous Serpent--Ancient Woods--A Winding Plant at the Water Spring--Three Encinos--Chicuhuite--Mule Drivers--Mules, Their Burdens and Travels--Cordova-- Two Enormous Palms--Market--Return to Huatusco Chapter 8 000 Political Condition of Mexico in Early 1846--My Illness--Rainy Season--Journey to the Capital--Tomatlan--Barranca de Metlaque--Orizaba--The Factory of Cololapan--Products of the Same--Ruses against Bandits--Their Cruelty-- Aculzingo--Puente Colorado--Canada de Ixtapan--The Altiplano--San Agustin del Palmar--Bad Water--Chula--Barranca Honda--San Simon--Acatzingo--The Inn Thereof--Bandit Raid--San Bartolo--Amozoc--Arrival in Puebla Chapter 9 000 Puebla--Architecture of the City, Streets, and Houses--Guest House--Plaza Mayor--The Cathedral--Another Church and Scientific Establishment--Cholula-- The Pyramid--Church of San Francisco--The Diligencia--Road from Puebla to Mexico--Rio Frio--Venta de Cordova--View of the Valley of Mexico. Chapter 10 000 Mexico City--Concerning the Wealth and Current Position of the Government--The Plaza Mayor--The Cathedral and Other Buildings--The College of Mining, the Botanical Gardens, and the Academy of Fine Arts--The University and Museum-- Plazuela of the Voladores--Paseo de la Viga--Canal of the Same Name--Santa Anita--The Chinampas--The Alameda, Paseo Nuevo, Citadel, and Water Supply-- Theater--Guest Houses and Warehouses--Tacubaya--Chapultepec--Guadalupe--Penon de los Banos--The Pyramids of Teotihuacan--A Few More Things Concerning My Residence and the Political Conditions of Mexico Chapter 11 000 Journey to Toluca--Road to Lerma--Guajimalpa--Cerro de las Cruces--Lerma--Road to Toluca--The City of Toluca--Its Dilapidation--Stop Therein--Revolution-- Otomi--Market--Theater--Bullfights--Trip to the Volcano--Cocustepec--Ascent of the Volcano--The Crater--Pool of the Same--Pico del Fraile--Cultivation of the Fields--South Side of Toluca--Tenango--San Pedro--Tenancingo--Industry Thereof--Barranca de Tequalaya Chapter 12 000 Journey to the Mines of Zacualpan--The Plain--Spruce Forests--Dangers of the Roads--Tisca--Road to Jaltepec--Vegetation--Hacienda Los Arcos--Procedures at the Silver Mines--The Smelter--The Amalgamation Process--Excursion to Zacualpan--Splendid View of That Place--The Mine "La Golondrina" at Tecicapan- -Mining in Mexico--Return Trip to Toluca--Manialtenango--Mineral Springs at Ixtapan Chapter 13 000 Journey to the Capital City--The Political Conditions of Mexico in September 1846--Immense Progress of the North Americans--Departure of Santa Anna--Hatred of Strangers--Departure for Toluca--Loss of My Things through Robbery--Return Trip over Puebla, Perote, and Jalapa--The Altiplano--Ojo de Agua--Fata Morgana--Perote--Las Vigas--El Mal Pais--The Eastern Slope--Jalapa--Beauty of the Environs--El Plan del Rio--Puente Nacional--Excursion to Zacuapan, Mirador, and Huatusco--Departure from These Places--Journey to Veracruz and Alvarado--Of Its Fortification and Environs Second Part: Travels in Yucatan, Tabasco, and Chiapas Chapter 14 000 Sea Journey to Campeche--View of the City--Arrival on Land--Campeche-- Description of the City--Dress of the People--Environs--Quintas--Yucatan-- Industry and Products--Commerce--Indians--Climate--Political Conditions--Delay in Campeche--Poverty of the Country--Wealth of the Sea--Civil War--The Padres Camargo--My Sad Condition and Illness--Christmas. Chapter 15 000 New Year 1847--New Year's Eve in My Room--Struggle with My Boa Constrictor-- Lerma--Journey to Champoton--Coastal Journey by Canoes--Sea Journey on the Same--Unpropitious Weather--Champoton--The River--Concerning the Population of the Country--Cuyos--Environs of Paraiso--Journey along the River--Xantel--A Beverage Called Pozole--Beautiful Forests--Ulumal--An Evening with an Indian-- Return Trip to Campeche--End of the Civil War--Armed Uprising of the Aboriginal Inhabitants--Carnival Chapter 16 000 Shipwreck of the English Steamship Tweed--A Document Referring to this Shipwreck--Description of the Same--Strange Delivery of a Letter--Another Delay in Campeche--Map of Yucatan--Political Conditions--Holy Week Chapter 17 000 Journey to Uxmal--Hampolol--Footwear, Springs, and Vegetation of the Same-- Tenabo--Casa Nacional--Tupiles--Quemasones--Hecelchakan--Pocboc--Dzitbalche-- Calkini--Becal--Uxmal--Description of the Ruins--House of the Magician--The Nunnery--House of the Governor--House of the Turtles--The House of the Doves-- The House of the Old Woman--El Picote--Indian Dance--Dangerous Signs of an Indian Rebellion--Departure from Uxmal--A Koche--Wilderness--Tremendous Heat-- A Forest Fire--Return Trip and Arrival in Campeche Chapter 18 000 Pilgrimage to Sambula--News from the Battleground--Capture of Veracruz--Defeat of the Mexican Army at Cerro Gordo--Taking of Perote and Puebla--Journey to Merida--Halacho--The Capital--Description of the Same--Lives and Doings of the Inhabitants--Industry and Commerce--Henequen, or Sisal Hemp--Newspapers--An Inn--Fiesta of San Sebastian--Cleanliness of the Yucatecan Clothing--Sacrifice of the Indian--Errors of the Same--Environs of Merida--The Cenote of Kopoma-- Concerning the Origins of the Cenote--Return Journey to Campeche Chapter 19 000 Summer Morning in the Tropics--China--Hacienda Chivic--Vegetation--Dyewood Forests--Of Its Costs in the Country--Life of the Woodcutter--Indian Dance-- Seiba the Cabecera--The Boundary of the Cultivated Estate--Indian Rebellion-- Proclamation of the Same--Unfortunate End for Mexico--Conquest of the Capital- -Peace Negotiations--The Fiesta of San Roman--New Unrest in Yucatan-- Preparations for Departure--Departure from Campeche Chapter 20 000 Journey to Tabasco--Capture of the City by the North Americans--Difficulties in Reaching Tabasco--The Pongo San Luis--Sea Travel--Unusual Pilgrimage-- Chiltepec--Arrival and Reception There--Mosquitoes--On the Rio Seco--Flooding of the Same--A Night in Espino--San Juan Bautista of Tabasco--Location, Inhabitants, and Climate Thereof--Of the Friendly Reception There--Rebellion of the Troops--Political Cycles Chapter 21 000 Journey to Teapa--River Pongos--Alligators--Ways and Means of Killing Them-- The Teapa River--Cacao Plantations along the Shores--Outpost of the Same in Tabasco--Sitios--La Sylva--Pueblo Nuevo--View of the Mountains--Jose Maria-- Eremita--Teapa--Location--Houses--Inhabitants--Commerce--Production of Hule-- Climate--The Tina Sickness--Vegetation--Original Forests--Natural Products-- Residence with Dr. Lefevre--The Mountains of Puyacatengo--Life and Doings in Teapa--Christmas--Excursion to Cocona and Rosario Chapter 22 000 New Year 1848--Emotional Life of the Traveler--Adventure in the Juiba Brook-- The Stalactite Cave "Cueva del Tigre" in Puyacatengo Mountain--Mountain Formation--First Journey in the Territory of Chiapas--The Sitio "La Esperanza"--Location and Vegetation--Sulphur Springs--Springs of Cooking Salt- -Neglect of Spiritual Care--Church Consecration in Istapangahoya--The Madregal and the Stalactite Cave of Tapijulapa--Return Trip over Trinidad and Rosario. Chapter 23 000 The Sitio Azufre--Location Thereof--Description of the Sulphur Spring Thereof- -Santa Rosalie--Lluvia--Rosario--Journey to Pichucalco--Location of the Place- -Inhabitants and Their Activity--Dr. Louis Bouchot--Vegetation of Chiapas-- Festival in the Last Part of Carnival--Improvised Theater--Summoning of a Tragedy--The Game of Chance Called Monte--A Minor Uprising--Return to Teapa-- Sad News of the Caste War in Yucatan Chapter 24 000 Departure from Teapa--San Jose--Second Stay in San Juan Bautista of Tabasco-- River Journey on the Grijalva or Tabasco--Chilapa--The Bank of the River-- Guadalupe de la Frontera--A Stop There--The North American Warship Aetna-- Departure with the Schooner Arietes to Havana--Departure from the Dry Land of Tropical America--Difficult and Protracted Ocean Voyage--Storms, Thundershowers, St. Elmo's Fire--Ship's Log until Arrival in Havana Chapter 25 000 Second Stop in Havana--The Plaza de Armas--The Tacon Theater--The Liceo de Havana--The Alameda de Paula--Regla--Marianao--Tobacco Factory--The German Support Society--Natural History Collections--Departure for Philadelphia-- Journey to the United States of North America--Arrival in Europe Notes 000 Index 000
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